Macmillan Bake Off Apron

It's that time of year again .... last year I posted about the Tracey Island cake I made for our work coffee morning.  I actually won 'Best Baker' with it!  I'm reluctant to lose my title so this year, I decided to make a special baking apron which could be raffled as a prize and so raise money that way.  I used a metre of Michael Miller 'Home Ec' fabric which I've had in my stash for a while now.  I used a toning purple bias binding for the finishing touches.  I made a couple of changes to the pattern, which is a Simplicity 1940's repro, as I didn't have quite enough fabric to make thicker waist ties but saying that, I quite like how mine turned out ....  I also missed out binding around the whole apron itself but I don't think that matters either - it might have been too much ....  I might add the rick rack which should go on the pocket borders next time I make it, which I will!  I really didn't want to give this away ....  I love the fabric and the apron shape itself is great - it looks like a little dress :-)

Minerva Product Testing - Monogram Bag

You can read all about how I made this initialled bag over on the Minerva Crafts website here  It's my latest product testing project.

I honestly didn't realise how complex bag making actually is ....  It involves as much time and effort as making a whole garment and there are a lot of decisions to be made about how to decorate it, what fabrics to put together, etc etc ....

Anway, I  hope you hop on over to Minerva and enjoy the read :-)

Minerva Product Testing - Astrakhan Jacket

You can see how I made this jacket up on the Minerva Craft Blog here now.  It's still a bit chilly out and I'm glad of it to wear!

Minerva Product Testing - Zandra Rhodes Vogue Jacket

You can read all about how I made this Vogue Zandra Rhodes Designer Jacket here on the Minerva Crafts blog:

https://www.minervacrafts.com/blog/product-reviews/zandra-rhodes-vogue-jacket-by-diane

It has to be one of the most technically demanding garments I have ever made ....  worth it though.

Minerva Product Testing - Clover Tablet Templates

You can see my latest product test over on the Minerva blog here.  I made a sewing wallet using templates designed for making both paper and electronic tablet covers, which I customized.  The product is from the Nancy Zieman range for Clover, who sadly passed away this week.  I didn't know anything about Nancy beforehand but have since found out that she was a huge sewing celebrity in the US.  I was sorry to hear the sad news.

https://www.minervacrafts.com/blog/product-reviews/clover-e-tablet--paper-tablet-keepers-by-nancy-zieman-review

Minerva Product Testing - Vilene Bag Kit

You can read all about how I made this cute bag up on the Minerva Crafts Blog as it has been published today.  Find all the details here.

Aviation Dress - Complete

I’ve been to two airshows since completing this dress.  At both, I was stopped numerous times to have it admired – one lady said I looked stunning in it and some others manning a Red Arrows stall said they couldn’t stop looking at my dress  …..  compliments indeed!

I loved making it, both using the pattern and fabric.  The Liberty Tana Lawn was so soft and sewed beautifully - it is printed with a mixture of current and historic aircraft.  I only made one adaptation to the pattern in adjusting the skirt to a couple of inches longer – which I’ve also done on another SewOverIt pattern as the length just seems to suit me better than the one supplied.  When I make this one again – which I will – then I’ll also add about another inch in the body as it is a bit short bodied but fine as it is so I'm nit picking really .....  I love the style of the dress which is so easy to wear and flattering for my shape.

Minerva Product Testing - Felt Duffel

Another bit of news preventing me from posting about my finished Aviation dress is that my Felt Duffel is now live on the Minerva Crafts website here.  You can read all about how I made it from their printed felt sheets.  It was a really enjoyable make.  Busy with my next Product Testing project now ... seem to have my sewjo back again 😆

Skirt's on ...

Well I've got the skirt on now ... that was very straightforward, just a matter of matching up the side seams and the bodice and skirt pleats.  I just made a minor grading alteration to cope with my apple shape and there looks to be plenty of room to fit me in!  It's a short bodice but that is flattering on a shape like mine.

I neatened the join with some matching bias binding which should also give it some extra strength.

Sewing Progress ....

I am so enjoying working with this Liberty fabric.  It is beautifully soft and runs through my machine like a dream.  There have been no snags or hold ups.

This description is from the Liberty website: 

Taking its name from Lake Tana in East Africa where the original cotton grew, Tana Lawn cotton is unique. Made from specially selected ultra-fine long staple cotton and finished without the use of crease-resisting chemicals or irritating allergens, the result is a famous masterpiece of fabric technology: fine, cool, comfortable and durable, with brilliant reproduction of colours and prints. 

I've finished the bodice section which was simple enough to construct, with some gathers at the shoulders and sewn down pleats around the waist - no darts.  The shoulder seam extends over from the back piece.  

The skirt is going on next.....

On My Sewing Table

Yes, (loud fanfare!)  There is something afoot ....  I am off to an airshow in a couple of weeks time and badly want a dress made out of this fabric which I bought in the Liberty Sale at Christmas.  It's perfect!  I want a shirtdress and although I already have patterns I want to try out the SewOverIt version so that's what I'm going for.

Will be doing updates on progress.  I've already cut out all the pieces (with help from Oscar of course ....).  More posts to come ....

Signs of Christmas

In the little town in Norfolk where I live, we are fortunate to have a sewing shop - a fairly large one in comparison to all the other surrounding stores.  It is now under new management and has undergone a lot of changes, making it contemporary and fresh.  Now named The Sewing Room, there is a Christmas window under construction.  I went for a short walk yesterday evening and stumbled upon it ... it's very inspiring ...

I love these little bags ...

Project Progress

Well, I've finished the first side of my patchwork project bag.  I work at it while I'm watching television - I have a bag full of scraps at the side of me and attach a patch here and there ...  I'm enjoying the process and the way it's turning out.  There are about 50 patches in this piece - on to the second side now ...

First Sew of the Year

What nicer way to start the year than to make what I hope to be a much loved project bag to hold all my supplies while sitting and crafting ...

I've attempted patchwork before and love the look of it.  It's such a calming and therapeutic thing to do while sitting cosy indoors.  I've tried squares, Dresden Plate and hexagon designs - all in varying states of progress - though the hexagon cushion cover is near completion and I finished a pincushion for an international swap some time ago.

For the bag, I'm using scraps of all my favourite projects over the past few years.  I've made 50 hexagons so far.  Seeing and using it will remind me of all the fun I've had taking part in sewalongs as well as the various outings I've been to in my creations.

I've been inspired to try patchwork by all kinds of sources, including places visited in the past and books read.

This crazy patchwork teacosy appears in a Milly Molly Mandy episode by Joyce Lancaster Brisley. One of my past projects was based on these stories - she always had outfits of pink and white stripes and I made a chevron skirt as homage!  I'll be sure to add some pink and white stripes to my bag ...

There are some wonderful illustrations in the books, a particular favourite of mine being the endpapers showing a map of the village where she fictionally lived.  This reminds me of patchwork too ...

Another inspiration is this covering, supposedly made by the three Bronte sisters, Anne, Charlotte and Emily from dress scraps.  It used to be on display in the 70's and early 80's at the Parsonage in Haworth where they lived and I remember seeing it there.  I believe it was out on display again for a short time just before this Christmas according to the wonderful blog http://kleurrijkbrontesisters.blogspot.co.uk/ where I found this illustration.

When I lived in the North, there always used to be trips to places such as York in the school holidays. This crazy patchwork covering is in the Castle Museum.

Have you any favourite patchwork examples you can tell me about?  Would love to hear about them ...

£1 per metre - it's true!

I noticed a dress under construction over at The Monthly Stitch using fabric from John Lewis for £1 per metre.  It initially caught my eye because I have some that I bought some time ago but in a different colourway...  So I had to go and look for myself and yes - they are actually selling sale fabric for £1!  There wasn't much left by the time I got there but I do have enough of the black 'Snippy' fabric to make a shirtdress with (over 5 metres ... should have been £16 per metre ... organic craft cotton).  I have about half as much of the stitch ripper fabric, again should have been £16 per metre originally - not sure what I'm going to do with that yet ...  I feel some sewing coming on!

 

Liberty in Fashion

Although my life has changed a lot lately and is still in transition, I'm also finding the time to keep up to date with my fabric obsession - I won't ever let go of my lifelong passion!  A couple of weeks ago, I was so happy to be able to travel to the opening day of The Fashion and Textile Museum's latest exhibition, 'Liberty in Fashion'.  I booked the curators' tour with Teresa Colinette and Dennis Nothdruft to gain a greater understanding of what I was about to see.

My group was told that the whole exhibition began as a private collection and looks at the history of Liberty from a fashion context, as clothing. 

We began with a short history of the company.  Arthur Lazenby Liberty was first employed at the Great Cloak Emporium, Farmers and Rodgers on Regent Street and became manager of the Oriental Department in the 1850's.  The Aesthetic Movement became fashionable at this time, popularised by Oscar Wilde.  Liberty became an expert in the Japanese style to cater for this trend and opened his own store over the road from the Cloak Emporium selling Oriental furniture, objects and ceramics.  Wilde wrote a column saying that Liberty was the best place to shop.

This early dress in primrose silk is a good example of the embroidery used on Liberty clothing at this time.

This Spitalfields silk dress would have been worn for court presentation.

A collar from Liberty archive last seen at the V&A in 1975.

Inspirations from Japan, China and India went into the mix for a fashionable lifestyle.  Liberty began to reach saturation point with his imports and began to produce his own fabrics - soft draping silks.  He set up a costume department within the store as Victorian ladies were unsure what to do with the new fabrics.

An orange loose dress in the exhibition, named a bernous.  This was the classic shape.

Artistic, aesthetic dressing was a reaction to what was happening in this country during the Victorian era.  Brightly coloured aniline dyes had been discovered, which were popular, but Liberty produced soft, natural dyes.   All garments had embroidery and subtle attention to detail.  They referenced the Greek style.  Embroidery patterns could be bought as do it yourself craft projects and a sense of craft is a technique apparent in Liberty dresses.

Paul Poiret produced four collections for the Liberty store after his own fashion house closed.  He had a similar aesthetic.

The modern day fabric design duo Collier Campbell (see earlier post for more information) purchased a dressing gown that was produced around this time as inspiration for a recent furnishing fabric.

Tyrian silk took natural dyes well.

1920's overprinted lame coat.

Aurora silk coat - almost like tie dye.

Liberty continued to have an ongoing connection with Japan.  A fan of Gilbert & Sullivan, he designed costumes for the Mikado.  In the early days of the Liberty store, sales assistants would wear kimonos.  He had a keen interest in telling people about other cultures, in an educational way.

Kimono - one of a range from the 20's and 30's.  

Lots of cloaks were also produced in the 1920's.


Handwork such as smocking became a feature of Liberty - it was revived.  A smock was a functional garment worn by such as Royalty.

Putting dresses together shows how Liberty's took off in the 1920's and 30's.  The mainstay of business was dress fabrics.  A sense of how people could interact with Liberty can be gained. Professional dressmakers produced their own labels and home sewing also became popular.  People interacted with the fabric in all kinds of ways.  After the First World War there was a move away from Modernism - to create a sense of Englishness, which was comforting.  After World War II, home dressmaking provided a great solution in times of austerity.

During the 1950's, Art Nouveau was revived through a series of exhibitions and Libertys realised that they were sitting on a treasure trove.  The Lotus Collection was developed - the colours used were extraordinary.  Below is a small selection of what they were producing.

A sense of revivalism and retro with a Modernist edge was aimed for, at all different price points.

1960's London was the epicentre of fashionable life and Liberty was located near Carnaby Street. Mary Quant used the fabric for her Ginger Group label.  Jean Muir and also the Dolly Rockers brand used Liberty fabrics in their designs.  Bernard Neville, Liberty Design Director, had associations with The Royal College and many Liberty designers came from there.

In the 1970's Liberty was producing a sense of nostalgia and optimism, a shift back from Futurism. Crafts and a perceived notion of life were revived.  Varuna wools were popular.  Fashion label Cacharel bought millions of yards of fabrics for their collections.

During the 80's, Liberty let the designers Collier Campbell 'do things'.  They produced the Bauhaus print, as a scarf initially and then for furnishing and dress.

Liberty today is just as collaborative with designers.  Zandra Rhodes produced a print for Liberty used for shoes.

Anna Sui has had prints re-coloured for her to suit her style.

Phillip Treacey has used prints for his hats.

For its 140th anniversary, these 2016 Liberty dress fabrics look back on their history and the silk route under new head of design Ed Burstell.  

As I was leaving the exhibition, I took a look around the shop.  I was asked by the sales assistant, what did I enjoy the most?  Put on the spot, I said the 2016 fabrics and the 30's tea dresses.  Maybe that will be something for me to think about in the coming year ...  A historical dress in current fabric.

You can see the exhibition for yourself at The Fashion and Textile Museum, Bermondsey, London, until 28 February 2016.